SPINNING NORMS

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SPINNING NORMS

• Prof. R. ChattopadhyayIIT, Delhi

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Table 1 Cotton fibre characteristics for
different yarn counts
Yarn Count (Nm) Cotton Variety Staple length (mm) 2.5 SL (mm) UR () Fineness (Mic) Tenacity g/tex Trash ()
lt 16 Deshi, Wagad, Striping Comber waste lt 20 16.8 22.1 48 - 53 4.7- 7.4 16.2- 21.9 3- 10
16-23 Wagad, Virnar, Jayadhar Stripping 20 - 23 21.5 - 23.4 48 - 53 4.6 5.2 1 5.0 - 21.9 5-10
24-32 Virnar, AK-235, Gaorani, J-34, CJ-73, Y-1, V-797, F-414 22 - 24 23.2- 26.1 46- 52 3.9- 5.2 16.9 - 24.0 3 - 10
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Yarn Count (Nm) Cotton Variety Staple length (mm) 2.5 S L (mm) UR () Fineness (Mic) Tenacity g/tex Trash ()
33-42 J-34, CJ-73, Y-1, V-797, F-414, A-51/9 16.9- 24 23.2-26.1 46- 52 3.8- 5.2 16.9- 24.0 3- 10
43-52 F-414, A-51/9, SRT-1, 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B), JKHY-1 18.1-22.2 23.4-29.5 44.6-49.4 3.6- 4.6 18.1- 22.2 6- 8
53-62 Digvijay, co2, SRT-1, 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (B) - 23.7-29.5 44.6-49.0 3.5- 4.6 18.1- 22.2 6-7
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Yarn Count (Nm) Cotton Variety Staple length (mm) 2.5 S L (mm) UR () Fineness (Mic) Tenacity g/tex Trash ()
63-70 1007, Laxmi, Shankar-4 (A), (B) (E), American 1.1/8 - 26.3- 29.5 44.6-49.4 3.6- 4.0 18.2- 22.2 6-7
71-102 Shankar-4 (A), MCU-5 (A) (B), Varalaxmi (B) Sudan GI, Sudan GS - 25.6- 34.9 45.7- 49.0 2.8- 4.0 21.2- 28.3 21.2-28.3
103-137 Varalaxmi (A) (B), MCU-5 (A),(Sudan GS, Giza-68) - 25.8-34.9 42- 50 2.8- 4.0 21.2- 28.3 5-6
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Yarn Count (Nm) Cotton Variety Staple length (mm) 2.5 S L (mm) UR () Fineness (Mic) Tenacity g/tex Trash ()
138-170 Varalaxmi (A), Suvin (Giza-45) - 35-37.4 45-49.5 2.7-3.1 30.1-32.6 3
170 and above Suvin (Giza-45) 41.0 37.6 49.5 2.7-3.0 30.8-33.0 2
Note These are only indicative values. The
characteristics are variable from year to
year. Source CIRCOT, Mumbai KVIC, Mumbai.
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Table 2 Properties of polyester to be blended
with cotton for different end-uses
End-uses Yarn count group (Nm) Length (mm) Fineness (den) Tenacity (g/ den)
Shirting and sarees Suiting 70 -100 2/50- 2/70 38- 44 38- 44 1.2 1.5 4.5- 6.0 4.5 - 5.5
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Table 3 Norm for yarn count CV
Metric count group Count CV
Cotton Coarser (Up to 24) Medium (24 to 70) Finer (Above 70) 10 8 6
Polyvastra For all count groups 6
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Table 4 Norms for yarn CSP
Metric count group (Nm) Lea dimensions Lea dimensions Lea dimensions Lea dimensions
Metric count group (Nm) 80 threads, 120 yard 80 threads, 120 yard 100 threads, 100m 100 threads, 100m
Metric count group (Nm) Normal (Nm ? Kg) Superior (Nm ? Kg) Normal (Nm ? Kg) Superior (Nm ? Kg)
Cotton Below 6 6 16 16 24 24 36 36 50 50 70 70 85 85 100 100140 Above 140 750 950 1000 1050 1150 1200 1500 1520 1450 900 1050 1100 1200 1270 1300 1650 1700 1550 900 1140 1200 1260 1380 1440 1800 1820 1740 1080 1260 1320 1520 1520 1560 1980 2040 1860
Polyvastra Below 36 36 70 70 100 100 -140 2080 2080 2280 2150 2500 2500 2740 2580
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Table 5 Norm for CSP CV
Metric count group CSP CV
Cotton 12
Polyvastra 12
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Table 6 Norms for yarn unevenness values (U)
Metric count group Unevenness (U)
Cotton For all count groups 22
Polyvastra For all count groups 19
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Table 7 Imperfections in khadi yarn
Metric count group Total Imperfections (Nos / Km) Thick Places (Nos/Km) Thin Places (Nos/Km) Neps (Nos/Km)
Cotton Below 6 6 16 16 24 24 36 36 50 50 70 70 85 85 100 100140 Above 140 4700 5800 8300 7700 1600 1700 2500 2100 1600 1600 2450 2500 1250 2100 2600 2900
Polyvastra Below 36 36 70 70 100 100 -140 3800 1400 930 1600
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Table 8 Appearance grade for khadi yarn
Metric count group Appearance grade
Cotton Up to 16 16 to 36 Above 36 D D or D D or C
Polyvastra For all count groups C
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Table 9 Norm for twist in the yarn
Metric count group Minimum twist (Turns/inch) Maximum twist (Turns/inch) Minimum twist (Turns/cm) Maximum twist (Turns/cm)
Cotton Below 6 6 16 16 24 24 36 36 50 50 70 70 85 85 100 100140 Above 140 11.0 15.0 19.0 20.5 23.0 26.0 25.0 32.0 38.0 15.0 19.0 22.0 25.0 27.0 30.0 39.0 40.0 50.0 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 13 15 6 7 9 10 11 12 15 16 20
Polyvastra Below 36 36 70 70 100 100 -140 20.0 23.0 23.0 26.0 8 9 9 10
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Table 10 BIS Norms of some cotton khadi fabrics
(Constructional parameters and property)
Types of Fabric Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Thread Density Thread Density Mass g/m2 Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N
Types of Fabric Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Mass g/m2 Warp Weft
Bed sheets (Bleached) 27 27 16 (Double) 14 (Double) 190 490 390
Bunting Cloth (Dyed) 17 14 14 13 190 450 330
Pugre Cloth (Bleached or Dyed) 30 30 16 16 110 334 294
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Types of Fabric Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Thread Density Thread Density Mass g/m2 Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N
Types of Fabric Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Mass g/m2 Warp Weft
Honey Comb and Huck-a-Back Towels (Bleached) a) 14   b) 14   c) 17   d) 24   e) 34 a) 14   b) 10   c) 17   d) 20   e) 34 11 (Double) 11 (Double) 8 (Double) 18 (Double) 11 (Double) 9 (Double) 7 (Double) 8 (Double) 13 (Double) 9 (Double) 360   325   198   290   218 450   620   450   1200   630 430   530   450   660   530
Long Cloth (Bleached) 27 20 17 17 160 392 372
Dosuti (Bleached or Dyed) a) 27 b) 20 a) 27 b) 17 14 (Double) 12 (Double) 13 (Double) 11 (Double) 205 260 760 800 660 660
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Types of Fabric Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Thread Density Thread Density Mass g/m2 Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N
Types of Fabric Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Mass g/m2 Warp Weft
Napkins and Table Cloth (Bleached) a) 27   b) 27 a) 27   b) 20 14 (Double) 17 13 (Double) 17 205   160 760   390 660   370
Dungri Cloth (Bleached) 17 17 13 12 180 390 370
Dusters (Bleached) 17 14 13 12 170 450 430
Lining Cloth (Dyed) 20 17 16 14 185 450 430
Sheeting Cloth (Bleached) 20 20 16 16 170 450 450
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Types of Fabric Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Metric Count of Yarn (Nm Thread Density Thread Density Mass g/m2 Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N Breaking load (on 10x20 cm strip, N
Types of Fabric Warp Weft Ends/cm Picks/cm Mass g/m2 Warp Weft
Sponge Cloth (Grey) 200/2 14 or 7 9 9 90 - -

• Tolerance percentage for thread density 1
• Method of test
• Thread density IS 1963 1981
• Mass (g/m2)- IS 19641970,
• Breaking load- IS 19691985

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Table 11 Constructional parameters and physical
property of additional khadi fabrics
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Metric count Range Metric count Range Thread density (per cm) Range Thread density (per cm) Range GSM (g/m2)
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 20-30 24- 27 20- 27 17- 21 11- 14 119- 138
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 30-50 31- 49 29- 47 16- 29 14- 21 95- 148
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 50-80 52 52 37 26 125
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 80-100 - - - - -
Kurta, pajama salwar suit Above 100 101- 126 108- 165 37- 61 40- 44 59- 107
Dhoti Medium 40- 59 51- 58 20- 25 16- 23 82- 90
Dhoti Superfine 108- 145 105- 140 33- 35 27- 51 59- 63
Saree Medium 50 54 20 16 74
Saree Fine 83 82 36 26 78
Saree Superfine 102- 141 115- 150 28- 32 22- 32 43- 45
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Breaking Strength (N) Range Breaking Strength (N) Range Elongation Range Elongation Range
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 20-30 120- 235 95- 170 7- 10 10- 14
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 30-50 140- 330 125- 210 8- 18 8- 27
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 50-80 245 210 11 11
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 80-100 - - - -
Kurta, pajama salwar suit Above 100 110- 305 170- 225 8-9 8- 9
Dhoti Medium 165- 200 95- 190 11- 12 10- 17
Dhoti Superfine 120- 125 135- 205 11- 13 8-9
Saree Medium 160 140 7 12
Saree Fine 235 190 12 9
Saree Superfine 140- 160 140- 145 6-9 5- 7
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Tearing strength (Kg) Range Tearing strength (Kg) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range No of samples tested
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Width Length
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 20-30 1-3 1-2.5 88-89 - 3
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 30-50 1-3.5 1-2 84-107 - 9
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 50-80 2 2 - - 1
Kurta, pajama salwar suit 80-100 - - - - 0
Kurta, pajama salwar suit Above 100 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 - - 2
Dhoti Medium 1-2 1-2 105-112 350-380 3
Dhoti Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1.5 120-124 394-400 2
Saree Medium 2.5 2.5 110 588 1
Saree Fine 0.5 0.5 114 504 1
Saree Superfine 0.5-1 0.5-1 115-120 520-532 2
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Metric count Range Metric count Range Thread density (per cm) Range Thread density (per cm) Range GSM (g/m2)
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Shirting Med/coarse 31-32 7 18-19 9-10 221-223
Shirting Medium 35-39 40-45 18-26 14-19 97-124
Shirting Fine/coarse 70 13 21 10 133
Shirting Fine 69 65 34 35 114
Shirting Fine/superfine 95 108 30 44 88
Shirting Superfine 141-155 100-172 57-87 50-73 75-113
Coating Bundy 28-43 4-9 14-26 8-9 197-275
Coating Pant 10 11 26 11 408
Lungi Med/coarse 26 15 18 12 160
Lungi Medium 27-41 27-48 18-23 12-19 107-124
Lungi Fine 61 70 26 19 83
Lungi Superfine 101 96 34 27 68
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Breaking Strength (N) Range Breaking Strength (N) Range Elongation Range Elongation Range
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Shirting Med/coarse 215-220 185-200 15-17 9-12
Shirting Medium 210-250 100-240 8-10 12-19
Shirting Fine/coarse 100 210 14 8
Shirting Fine 160 220 10 12
Shirting Fine/superfine 140 190 10 10
Shirting Superfine 200-235 205-305 9-15 9-11
Coating Bundy 160-260 195-370 12-24 11-15
Coating Pant 1110 520 14 11
Lungi Med/coarse 240 250 26 19
Lungi Medium 225-230 145-175 14-15 8-16
Lungi Fine 170 135 14 8
Lungi Superfine 140 140 14 8
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Tearing strength (Kg) Range Tearing strength (Kg) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range No of samples tested
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Width Length No of samples tested
Shirting Med/coarse 4-4.5 2.5-3 91-98 - 2
Shirting Medium 1-2.5 0.5-1.5 83-84 - 3
Shirting Fine/coarse 2 1 90 - 1
Shirting Fine 1 1 89 - 1
Shirting Fine/superfine 1 0.5 100 - 1
Shirting Superfine 1-3 0.5-3.5 91-100 - 3
Coating Bundy 3-4.5 2.5-4 72-87 - 4
Coating Pant 2 3 87 - 1
Lungi Med/coarse 2.5 4 110 218 1
Lungi Medium 1-1.5 2-4 108-116 204-230 2
Lungi Fine 3 2 125 176 1
Lungi Superfine 1 1 125 176 1
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Metric count Range Metric count Range Thread density (per cm) Range Thread density (per cm) Range GSM (g/m2)
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Towel Turkish 18-19 27-42 26-27 16-19 231-239
Towel Honey comb 19-39 10-38 25-32 15-24 164-311
Towel Huck-a-back 7 5 8 8 467
Bed sheets Single thread 19-32 5-35 14-26 8-17 141-262
Bed sheets Double thread 29-37 33-41 19-29 13-26 130-178
Gamchha Med/coarse 25-36 13-18 17-21 12-17 148-178
Gamchha Medium 55 56 24 18 77
Gamchha Fine/medium 64 51 24 19 86
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Breaking Strength (N) Range Breaking Strength (N) Range Elongation Range Elongation Range
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Towel Turkish 275-295 135-175 12-15 6-8
Towel Honey comb 280-900 170-805 13-25 17-19
Towel Huck-a-back 315 145 20 14
Bed sheets Single thread 190-290 185-340 11-17 12-17
Bed sheets Double thread 120-285 60-260 7-13 8-15
Gamchha Med/coarse 205-340 160-320 18-22 12-18
Gamchha Medium 135 115 13 10
Gamchha Fine/medium 120 265 14 10
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Tearing strength (Kg) Range Tearing strength (Kg) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range No of samples tested
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Width Length No of samples tested
Towel Turkish 3.5-4 3-3.5 67-68 128-136 2
Towel Honey comb 4-4.5 3-3.5 65-73 128-164 3
Towel Huck-a-back BC BC 67 136 1
Bed sheets Single thread BC BC 126-142 230-260 3
Bed sheets Double thread 1.5-4 2-3.5 200-222 250-300 3
Gamchha Med/coarse 1.5-5 1-4 75-76 160-165 2
Gamchha Medium 1.5 1 90 152 1
Gamchha Fine/medium 1.5 1.5 90 308 1
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Metric count Range Metric count Range Thread density (per cm) Range Thread density (per cm) Range GSM (g/m2)
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Curtain 2/34 33-34 30-31 16-29 12-16 100-143
Curtain 14 24 17 26 19 225
Khes Single 20-32 3-9 12-26 7-9 200-367
Khes Double 5-6 4-6 13-14 7-8 484-489
Dari Loom 2-20 1-5 2-7 6-30 514-937
Dari Punja 2 1 17 3 1446
Polyvastra Coating Dosuti 26 23-26 25-27 15-17 171-182
Polyvastra Coating Single 53-60 43-56 27 19-22 97-102
Shirting Double 22-46 22-49 18-41 17-28 131-168
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Breaking Strength (N) Range Breaking Strength (N) Range Elongation Range Elongation Range
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Warp Weft
Curtain 2/34 205-415 175-215 6-8 2-19
Curtain 14 235 290 13 15
Khes Single 140-350 120-425 10-12 10-14
Khes Double 210-265 115-155 15-16 11-14
Dari Loom 100-210 635-1015 5-10 16-27
Dari Punja 970 475 BC BC
Polyvastra Coating Dosuti 1060-1090 650-770 15-18 14-22
Polyvastra Coating Single 400-405 230-415 10-13 14-26
Shirting Double 580-820 405-655 12-18 16-18
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Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Tearing strength (Kg) Range Tearing strength (Kg) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range Fabric dimensions (cm) Range No of samples tested
Types of Fabric Yarn count used (Nm) Warp Weft Width Length No of samples tested
Curtain 2/34 3-4.5 3-3.5 85-124 - 2
Curtain 14 BC BC 80 - 1
Khes Single BC BC 120-125 220-225 3
Khes Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 120-128 245-256 2
Dari Loom BC BC 92-117 192-200 3
Dari Punja BC BC 131 208 1
Polyvastra Coating Dosuti 3.5-4.5 3-4 71-72 - 2
Polyvastra Coating Single 1-2 1-2 117 - 2
Shirting Double 4-4.5 3-3.5 73-90 - 4
BC Indicates beyond the capacity of the machine
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Table 12 Productivity of cotton yarn (gm/spl hr)
Sl No. Count (Nm) Production (gm/spl hr)
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 6 14 35 45 50 80 100 150 62 42 12-13 12-13 12-13 7-8 7-8 2.5
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Table 13 Productivity of cotton yarn (No. of
hanks per 8 hour)
Count (Nm) Production (No. of hanks per 8 hour)
Coarse Medium Fine 35-38 32-35 30-32
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Table 14 Productivity of cotton fabric
production/hr (mts)
Types of fabric Metric count Metric count Grey width (Inches) Thread density (Per inch) Thread density (Per inch) Production (mts/hr)
Types of fabric Warp Weft Grey width (Inches) Warp Weft Production (mts/hr)
Pajama (Dosuti) 35/2 35/2 36 80 70 0.7
Pajama (Eksuti) 35 35 36 48 44 0.8
Shirting 40 40 45 40 40 1
Shirting 40 40 36 50 46 0.75
Shirting 40 40 36 48 48 0.7
Shirting 44 44 54 40 36 1
Shirting 100/2 100/2 36 60 54 0.5
Shirting 60 60 45 60 54 1
Shirting 60 60 40 48 46 0.8
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Types of fabric Metric count Metric count Grey width (Inches) Thread density (Per inch) Thread density (Per inch) Production (mts/hr)
Types of fabric Warp Weft Grey width (Inches) Warp Weft Production (mts/hr)
Shirting 60 60 45 56 54 0.75
Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 1
Shirting 100 100 45 76 45 0.75
Shirting 100 100 45 76 72 0.6
Shirting 100 100 36 76 72 0.7
Shirting (Checks) 100 100 36 60 55 0.5
Bed Sheet (Do Suti) 35/2 35/2 48 80 72 0.7
Bed Sheet 26/2 4 60 30 30 1.2
Bed Sheet (Twill) 30/2 4 60 30 30 1
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Types of fabric Metric count Metric count Grey width (Inches) Thread density (Per inch) Thread density (Per inch) Production (mts/hr)
Types of fabric Warp Weft Grey width (Inches) Warp Weft Production (mts/hr)
Coating 32/2 32/2 34 40 36 1
Coating 56/2 56/2 38 56 50 0.9
Coating (Poly) 70/3 70/3 34 56 50 0.8
Coating (Poly) 70/3 70/3 34 56 50 1.5
Coating (Bundy) 32 32 28 40 40 1
Denim 10 10 34 128 42 0.4
Dari (36) 20/6 4/4 36 10 10 0.3
Dari (912) 20/9 6/4 144 7 8 0.3
Dhoti 100 100 50 80 76 0.8
Dhoti 60 60 54 50 46 1
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Types of fabric Metric count Metric count Grey width (Inches) Thread density (Per inch) Thread density (Per inch) Production (mts/hr)
Types of fabric Warp Weft Grey width (Inches) Warp Weft Production (mts/hr)
Saree (Plain) 100 100 45 60 56 0.6
Saree (Colour) 100 100 45 80 75 0.4
Saree (Patta) 60 60 45 40 45 1
Saree with Border 60 60 45 40 40 0.7
Lungi 40 40 45 48 46 0.8
Lungi 60 60 45 40 40 0.7
Lungi (Colour) 34 34 46 40 40 1
Towel (Mat) 20/2 34/2 36 34 34 1
Dupatta 56 56 36 40 38 1
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Essential Test Equipments Required for Routine
Quality Checking
Fibre
Sl No. Name of the Instrument Property assessed BIS Standard
1 Baer sorter Fibre length IS 10014 (Part 1) 1984
2 Fibre fineness tester Fibre fineness (Micronaire value) IS 3674 1966
3 Wrap reel for sliver/roving Sliver / roving count -
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Yarn
Sl No. Name of the Instrument Property assessed BIS Standard
1 Wrap reel Lea formation -
2 Lea strength tester Lea strength (CSP) IS 1671 1977
3 Twist tester (Single double yarn) The amount of twist per cm or inch IS 832 1985
4 Yarn board winder Appearance grading of yarn IS 1671 1977
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Fabric
Sl No. Name of the Instrument Property to be measured BIS Standard
1 Pick glass Thread density IS 1963 1981
2 Measuring tape Length width -
3 Fabric strength tester Strength IS 1969 1985
4 Round cutter GSM -
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Chemical processing
Sl No. Name of the Instrument Property to be measured BIS Standard
1 Light fastness tester Light fastness IS 2454 1985
2 Launderometer Washing fastness IS 687, IS 3361, IS 764, IS 765, IS 3417
3 Crockmeter Rubbing fastness IS 105
4 Shrinkage Template Dimensional changes IS 10099 1982
5 Spectrophotometer Whiteness measurement -